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When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.